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Out front, Evan Handler greets guests like long-absent friends, while in the open kitchen Toby Matasar and staff execute a menu so comforting it's like sinking into an overstuffed easy chair -- which is exactly what you'll want to do if you manage to clean your heaping plate. Though it's tempting to label the all-housemade, seasonally rotating fare as "Jewish deli," it's really a melting pot reflecting their respective families' broader histories, from Bubbie's bolognese (rich and dense, best enjoyed with perfectly al dente, mouthful-sized shells) or matzoh ball soup, to pan seared halibut, to pistachio crusted seared scallops. The wine list is broad and affordable. At lunch, the star is the classic Reuben, but curried chicken and veggie chopped salads aren't to be missed. Afterwards, take your pick between lemon parfait, chocolate souffle, rhubarb crisp and an array of pastries, and remember that the prodigious ice cream sandwich can be shared -- with several friends.