For once we find a steakhouse that has neither excessive kitchen pretension nor locations across both country and county. This Back Bay yearling is a local product where leather booths, looming torchieres and a vaulted gold-leaf ceiling make for a dramatic setting that ably feeds the self- importance of the suited diners.

From the outside looking in, the menu is a just-creative- enough assortment of flesh and flourishes like a pan-seared crabcake with fruit salsa or a bone-in filet with a portobello demi-glace. Still, something is missing here -- namely, the primal aged sweetness of the kind of meat that makes a place like Brooklyn's Peter Luger a legend. That said, the prime New York sirloin and prime rib are the cleanup hitters in the meat lineup, while the porterhouse falls short of the feral delight a great steakhouse should always deliver.

Categories: Restaurants, Restaurants-Steak Houses

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