Thin-crust pies are the true art form of the pizza genre. It's all too easy to make a thick, gloppy pie, loaded up with all sorts of nonsense, add an inch of cheese and declare it world-class. With thin-crust pie, however, you have to get the balance just right or it's a total failure.

This legendary joint gets it just right. The crust is thin and crisp, with a slight edge of burn along the outer rim. The sauce is substantive and fragrant without being distracting -- and best of all, it's not sweet, a deal-breaker if ever there were one. The cheese, meanwhile, is scattered loosely over the top, not quite covering the entire surface area. The combination is surprisingly light and satisfying.

As far as ambiance goes, how can you go wrong? From the self-affirming sign in the front window ("This is Tacconelli's") to a CD jukebox with Louis Prima, Patsy Kline and, naturally, Sinatra to the restrooms, labeled "Guys" and "Dolls," the place oozes charm. The menu is simple and direct as well: three kinds of pies -- tomato (no cheese), regular (some cheese) and white (no sauce, plenty of cheese and garlic) -- and the usual toppings. That's it. You want pasta, go to a spaghetti house. Sure, you have to call ahead to reserve your dough for the next day's orders, and, yes, their hours are somewhat peculiar, but we assure you, it's absolutely worth playing by their rules.

Categories: Restaurants, Pizza, Restaurants-Pizza

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