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Inside a waterfront, maritime-themed room that -- for once -- actually does evoke a ship, the lads at The Quays have outdone themselves. The Irish-fusion menu can't even keep its hands off a simple Irish staple like steamed Molly Malone cockles 'n mussels: no mere Guinness bath here. Instead, the shells are stewed in a broth of chorizo, potatoes, chives and habanero peppers. Quail isn't merely spit-roasted; it's stuffed with long beans, Chinese sausage and pomegranate seeds, then spiced with five-spice mix. The dinner entrees go as far upscale as seared Long Island duck in cranberry-Grand Marnier sauce or osso buco with rigatoni and white beans. Yet you can also get a nicely grilled filet mignon, fish and chips, shepherd's pie or an Irish brunch -- a real Irish brunch. For those who've never been there (and you know who you are), that means soda bread, a sort of potato cake, and (yes) grilled tomatoes siding your eggs and sausage. You won't be able to take your eyes off the decor, either, which features black-and-white maritime prints on the walls, gigantic ship's ribs that seem extracted directly from a Viking dig somewhere in Denmark, and faux dock pilings curbside.