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Bars called Harry's always run a risk. By appropriating the name of one of the world's most famous literary watering holes -- Harry's American Bar in Paris -- the other Harrys of the world invite a comparison that few could ever hope to justify. Kansas City, though once called the Paris of the Plains, is no City of Lights, after all. And the center of Westport, however chic by local standards, is a far cry from the grandeur of the Right Bank.

Which makes the accomplishment of Harry's Bar and Tables all the more impressive. Don't expect fois gras and Bourdeaux here -- that's not what Harry's (either of them) is about. This is a more simple oldtime establishment that hearkens back to the era of F. Scott Fitzgerald, flappers and enormous radios. With high tin ceilings, exposed brick walls and a classic white-tile floor, the interior reverently evokes the 1920s. Some stained-glass inset windows add an art nouveau touch. The bartenders, dressed in pressed white shirts and ties, serve pints of upmarket draft beers and some two dozen wines (available by the glass or bottle). An impressive array of quality liquors lines the glass shelves behind the dark wooden bar.

The crowd is one of the best-dressed in Westport, a well-cologned crowd of monied professionals, social butterflies and tech-industry hipsters. Seating is limited, but with a late-night liquor license, the possibilities aren't.