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If smoky goodness is your passion, beat a path to the door of Mr. Chelsea's Barbecue in the Painters Mills Shopping Center. Don't be misled by the line snaking through the small ordering area - it's merely other like-minded souls craving their fix. In fact, you'll be hard-pressed to get your to-go order out of the tiny dining room before falling to the tempting aroma. Jazz up hickory-smoked brisket, savory Carolina pulled pork or fun-and-sloppy barbecue with your choice of sweet-and-tangy Alabama-style, tart Arkansas mustard or spicy red sauces (grab a bottle to go). Slow-smoked chicken, dry-rubbed St. Louis-style pork ribs and beef brisket come in large or small portions, depending on your appetite. For family dining, choose a couple of racks of ribs or brisket or pulled pork by the pound. Side dishes may be an afterthought at some places, but not in Mr. Chelsea's kitchen, where round pans of cornbread behind the ordering line glass will leave you salivating. Baked fresh mac and cheese, Chicago-style pit beans (three types with chilis, onions, peppers, smoked meats, molasses and secret sauce), crunchy cole slaw, New Orleans-style green bean salad and seasoned collard greens are worthy companions to your BBQ entre.