The tables are unbearably close together, which makes this a place to eat, not gossip, argue or seduce. Keep that in mind because mother is watching -- in this case, Lisa Schroeder. Schroeder is the maternal food goddess who found her way west on the arm of a former Portland actor and immediately skyrocketed to local fame with this top-notch, comfort-kissed restaurant. Sharp furnishings, white table linens and big windows to the street (in what once was a popular Irish pub) give the place a big New York feel.

But the food is down home - matzo-ball soup, chunky sandwiches, fresh salads, Big Apple-imported bagels, meatloaf and steak frites, fried ravioli, pot roast and real vegetable pot pie. The dessert menu is all mother-love: moist, rich devil food cake and warm gooey chocolate chip cookies. Brunch on Saturday and Sunday is mouthwatering. Dishes change from week to week, but never disappoint. It's an expansive menu that is bound to please all ages - from tots (cookie, please) to gramps (chopped liver, anyone?). -- Jo Ostgarden

Mother's Bar
Gilt trim and crystal-drop chandeliers create a warm, old-fashioned sense of elegance in Mother's Bar, just around the corner from the Bistro. The little lounge is as charming as a private parlor. Curtained windows offer a peek out at the street, and an elaborate, imposing bar covers the back wall. Specialty cocktails tend towards sweet, fruity inventions and chocolate-tinted dessert drinks. There's also a full-length wine list, which includes aperitifs and after-dinner cordials. During regular dinner hours, you can order from Mother's award-winning menu. After-hours, choose one of the cunning ''TV Dinners.'' You can get entrees like meatloaf or pot roast, served in rectangular, partitioned trays, complete with a vegetable, Mother's fantastic mashed potatoes, and even a compartment of homemade fruit cobbler. -- Anne Marie DiStefano

Categories: Restaurants, Restaurants-Bistro

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