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Tony Cheng has brought crowds to Chinatown for more than 20 years. His personal flair and business savvy have made him a mainstay in Washington, and with kitchens that seem to back up the bravado, his restaurants do well. Such is the case with his Chinese seafood restaurant. Stacked on top of his Mongolian Barbecue restaurant, the dining room and menu match Cheng's personality -- enormous and occasionally overdone. Giant holding tanks are on display with Dungeness crabs and lobsters battling for position, and traditional Asian art is featured throughout the expansive space.

Cheng is known for his long menus, so "seafood" is a limiting label. There are the traditionally spicy and hearty meat dishes of Szechuan, as well as an array of more delicate seafood offerings from Canton. The menu can be dizzying in its length, so opt for the dim sum that's offered every day for lunch -- there is an endless variety, and the price is reasonable. At dinner, you're on your own with the menu. Your best bet might be to look around at the tables and see what the locals are having. A few ideas: stir-fried lobster, crispy snapper or beef with oyster sauce. -- Nick Freshman