In Italy ''caffe'' means espresso, and indeed, at Caffe Mingo you'll find penne pasta with beef braised in Chianti and espresso on the menu. But this long-lived, perennially favorite restaurant is more about uncomplicated, accessible Italian foods. The menu, combined with spare presentation and informal service, gives the Tuscan-style cafe a down-home feel, yet one with a very modern flair.

Tightly packed tables, mostly duos and a couple of larger communal ones, encompass the small space. A couple of stools snug a tiny dining counter, facing a tiny exposed kitchen. Shelves hold wine bottles, cheese rounds and kitchen tools. Sit at the big tables if you don't mind sharing (and want to avoid the interminable wait outside for duos) or bring a group and order family-style.

Start with the antipasti - the Assaggino Assortito is an assortment of crostini, salads and thinly sliced salami. In addition to a brief, but longstanding menu, consider the nightly pasta specials simply paired with red sauce or grilled sausages, shrimp, halibut, roasted chicken, lamb, and Painted Hills natural beef. Noteworthy picks include grilled polenta, baked gnocchi and pappardelle with porcini muschrooms and venison. There's also an excellent selection of Italian wines, particularly notable Barbescos. -- Jo Ostgarden

Categories: Restaurants-Italian, Restaurants

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