The art deco-style exterior of Joe Mama's evokes the look of a vintage diner. Here, a faux-stainless-steel sign juts out at an angle above the entrance, at the corner of Forbes and Oakland. The wall on the Oakland Avenue side bears the legends "Absolutely No Ball Playing Allowed" and "Post No Bills" -- to deter the neighborhood hoodlums, presumably. Above these edicts, a mural of a Coca-Cola ad features a dark-haired femme fatale who looks as though she just stepped out of a film-noir picture, red-hot dress and all.

The decor here is modest, but Joe Mama's bears an aura of class that discourages rushing through your meal; waiters pace their deliveries to ensure no course overlaps. Along with a lengthy list of pasta dishes and a martini menu, special mention should be made of the half- pound meatball, available as a meal in itself or as part of a main dish.

Categories: Restaurants-Italian, Restaurants

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