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The "California approach" to barbecue sounds like a recipe for disaster -- why mess with perfection? In fact, great 'cue and great local chefs have plenty in common, including a dedication to providing great flavor without much fuss. "Bo McSwine," proprietor of the Lafayette sensation Bo's Barbecue, brings aged Niman Ranch meat and free-range Fulton Valley poultry to the smoker -- along with touches like Acme baguettes instead of cornbread or white bread, wine and over 30 beers and an East Bay backyard-barbecue ambience.

Pretty much everything is good, even the juicy chicken and a straightforward, toothy potato salad. Highlights are succulent beef or pork ribs, savory house-made links, a tender brisket sandwich and a dry-aged "market steak." Order it a day in advance, and choose from hand-blended spice rubs, secret marinades or just popped on the smoker. Bo's sauce is sublime: tangy and not too sweet.

Make a play for one of the coveted tables in the suburban-looking brick building, or stand in line for takeout. If you decide to stay, you'll have time to linger over a microbrew and a small pie (apple, blackberry or sweet potato). Either way, lines are long, and your food's not done till it's done. -- Julie Ross