Red's Java House is a throwback to a time when only dockworkers lunched along the Embarcadero and "fancy" was a fightin' word. This shack under the Bay Bridge has held fast to its roots since 1956, serving hearty lunches and heartier coffee. Though the place recently added breakfast and dinner, it hasn't gone any more upscale. Prices rose with the revamp, but they're very fair for the portions.

Sandwiches are packed onto French rolls smeared with mayo and mustard; there's not much choice of ingredients, and your burger will only come well-done, but they're hearty and savory. Breakfast pancakes are light, sweet, fluffy and worth twice the price. Servers are warm and friendly; if you come here often, they'll remember your name and how you take your coffee. The java itself comes from a variety of house-processed beans, which you can buy in plastic bags for under $10 well worth it.

Another great deal, unless you're a wine snob, is the cup (not glass) of wine (from a box), which will run you less than $2. On sunny days, take your lunch outside and sit amid the dockworkers (they still exist), tourists and suits, all gazing dreamily at the water.

Categories: Restaurant Management

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