A century ago, New York sported over 800 places where one could, beer in hand, eat, drink and act convivial with fellow city folk while sitting in or strolling through enclosed outdoor grounds. Sounds nice, but as the 20th century passed and real estate skyrocketed, it became increasingly hard for these tree-lined taverns to skirt commercial development. Yet this holdout is no mere throwback to the gaslight era; it offers sharp, on-tap beer and solid, if heavy, modern cuisine. Notice, for example, the shopworn wood bar by the entrance; its time-tested character lightens the mood. After picking up, say, your Pilsner, head into the state's largest enclosed park, a woodland where redwood picnic tables seating 500 await -- and wait for table service to bring pierogi, crepes, goulash, steak with ham and cheese, or kielbasa, potato and sauerkraut. Weekends, this horse-and-buggy-era bohemia is strictly SRO, much as it was 100 years ago. Which proves that at least somewhere in this town, it's hip to be historical. -- Leonard Jacobs

Categories: Caterers

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