The Frontier Room used to be a smoky den of iniquity, a rough-around-the-edges watering hole known far and wide for its distinctly un-watery mixed drinks. Now, a different kind of smoke (applewood with hickory, for example) wafts from the kitchen and plates. When the owners set out to spruce up the setting with a kitschy Western twist, they wisely opted not to sanitize the space -- it's user-friendly but retains its gritty character. Smoking is still allowed in the boisterous bar, which, after dark, turns into one of Belltown's hottest places to see-and-be-seen.

The menu focuses on exactly what one would expect from a restaurant named "Frontier": barbecue. Except for the oysters Frontier starter or fabulous prawns etouffee, zero in on the meats, many of which are brought to near perfection in the kitchen's Southern Pride pit smoker. The moist, tender baby back ribs come in two sizes. Beef brisket spends a dozen hours in the smoker, the barbecue chicken, about four hours. Go regional with the Tennessee Pork or St. Louis Ribs.

Portions tend to be large, especially when accompanied by baked beans, coleslaw or fries, so those who really and truly don't want to take home leftovers should consider a pulled pork sandwich or a bowl of the fiery, more-meat-than-beans chili. That should save enough room for pecan pie. By the way, this isn't the best place to bring your vegan cousin visiting from Berkeley, even considering the fact that the pork, all from Niman Ranch, is raised without use of hormones or antibiotics.

Categories: Restaurants-Barbecue, Restaurants

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