If you're wondering just how good the barbecued ribs at Cubby's are, just check out diners' faces: One look around this smugly satisfied room and you'll understand why the baby back ribs are approaching sacred status in Bergen County. Tender, sweet meat that falls from the bone with the mere stare of hungry eyes, they'll win over even the most seasoned barbecue diner, making one forget about things like napkins and public scrutiny. But Cubby's' mastery of this uniquely American niche extends to several offerings, notably the center-cut pork sandwich, which left us discarding the bread in a state of all-out gorging. A family-friendly, cafeteria-like atmosphere and a menu that reaches to all corners of grill-joint fare (chicken, fish, burgers, dogs) push Cubby's beyond the pigeonhole of barbecue pit and into the realm of working-class jewel. With extra napkins on the tables, of course.

Categories: Restaurants-American, Restaurants

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